Fall Palette Challenge #1: Lisette Market Blouse pattern review

I’m excited to finally show my first Palette Challenge piece: Simplicity 2211, the Lisette Market Blouse.  I’m less excited that all this grey weather means poor pictures. I’m including pictures just for demonstration purposes.

Many reviewers have sized down because of generous ease in this top, but I found that if I went down a size, the shoulders and upper chest and armholes did not fit. So I cut my usual Simplicity size, based on my high bust.  The finished chest measurement given is 43” and my full bust is 42”, but after a quick tissue fitting, I saw that I nevertheless needed to add another inch to the dart. I’m no math expert, but this didn’t entirely make sense.  You really can’t rely solely on the measurements given! After stitching the darts in my fashion fabric, I basted the shoulders and sides to try it on. The darts needed a slightly different shape to lay properly, so I marked the apex on the wrong side and then used a ruler to draw the point another 1” further out without deepening the dart. Perfect! As I could see last time, different garments and fabrics will require different adjustments.

The construction of the blouse is simple enough and the outside facings are a clever and comfortable detail. However, you do need to cut and stitch precisely to get a nice finish. Be sure your placket will be covered by the neck facing before you stitch it to the blouse neckline. I don’t think there is anything lacking in the pattern instructions, you should always take care if you want good results, but I think it’s worth pointing out that despite the simplicity and ease of the garment construction, you need to take your time.

The topstitched outside facings give you a very clean finish. You don't have to fuss with facings flapping around on the inside and worry about how to make them look nice. Which they never really do. I used French seams at the sides, shoulders and, yes the sleeves too. I'm convinced that it's easier to set sleeves with a smaller sleeve allowance. When I have French seams meeting at an underarm or crotch, I make sure one seam is pressed to the back and one pressed to the front to reduce the bulk.

The sleeves are very cute without being too much like little girls’ tops, but the generous ease in the waist is downright unflattering on a curvy figure. I added back darts to counter the excessive ease and give the blouse some much needed shape. After I loose a few more baby pounds, I might add some front darts too.  I had been skeptical of the faux placket, but the buttons really brought the whole thing together and I didn’t mind that they aren’t functioning.

The fabric is cotton voile from Valori Wells Wrenly collection. It’s as buttery soft as other Freespirit voiles and a pleasure to work with as well as to wear. I also used fabric for the interfacing. I did some reading (resources listed at the end of this post)and chose some plain ivory voile from my stash.  This stabilized the voile as much as fusible interfacing but it feels so much better! The voile-interfaced pieces feel like double gauze and are comfortable and breathable, unlike the synthetic fusible stuff. It didn’t hold a crease very well, but did find once it was stitched down. Perhaps some batiste would give a crisper finish, but this worked fine for the style of top. I like to think the blouse feels and looks just a little more expensive with this detail.

I added some length to the hemline. I didn’t want to worry about my underwear or muffin top peeking out if I have to bend down to hoist kids up. I’m 5’9” so adding a little length is normal.

Like all the Liesette patterns, this one seems designed with a straight and slim figure in mind. However, I’m pleased enough with how this one adapted for a curvier figure. The neckline is a little high and while the placket adds a vertical line, I’m not sure if it breaks up the bust line quite enough to prevent me looking fat and matronly.  If I were to make it again, I would lower the neckline.

Next up in my Fall Palette Challenge is the new Colette Peony Dress, but that will have to wait a week or two until baby girl’s own birthday party dress is finished.

Resources for interfacing: Sewing and Craft Alliance; University of Kentucky; Gertie and on sewing with voile by Anna Maria Horner.