Friday, February 10, 2012

A continental affair

I’m so eager to share this project that I can’t wait any longer to try and get decent pictures. I really wanted to use this stunning Anna Maria Horner voile for an upcoming mom’s night out, but simply couldn’t decide on the right pattern. At first, I envisioned a simple sheath dress to showcase the pattern. Then I realized that the large scale would benefit from some pleats or gathers to break up the design a little. I’m not sure why I suddenly realized that the Lisette Continental Dress (Simplicity 2059) was the right thing, but it was serendipitous. I was drawn to the Continental dress when it debuted last spring, but I was skeptical that it would suit my figure and it sat for a while. With only a week until girls’ night, I finally (after a really quick muslin, I admit) decided to take the plunge. I threw this thing together with a shaky mixture of excitement and fear until the moment I debuted it for my friends last Saturday at Beau Monde. Isn’t it funny how some projects can actually put butterflies in your stomach?


This pattern was likely conceived as a casual dress, but with dramatic fabric, chandelier earrings and heels, I think it dressed up perfectly well for a night on the town. With a simple cardi and flats, it was just fine for Mass the next morning. I can imagine wearing this to school meetings as well. A super long cardigan would be nice, wouldn’t it?

No FBA was required for this, because there really is a *LOT* of ease built into this dress. That worked well for me, but if you’re less full busted you might think about how loose you like it to be. I took the shoulders and the lower armscyes in a little. I needed the fullness of my usual Simplicity size, but the arms gaped more than I liked. I didn’t want my enormous bra to show. I added a smidge of length as well as a deep hem that I finished by hand. I think the voile hangs a little better with an invisible hem but for a casual dress, I would simply machine the narrow hem the pattern suggests. I adjusted the front gathers while wearing the dress and pinned them into place. This way, I could make sure they were in just the right place for me.

Even in a dark color, this voile is a little sheer, so I added a lining in Bemberg rayon. I simply made a second dress, stitched them together at the armscyes and neck, then finished them together with the bias trim. Easy peasy. I made French seams down the sides of both lining and fashion fabric so they could hang independently. For fun, and because I had a few minutes to spare before meeting the girls, I added hand-stitched thread belt loops to hold the ribbon in place.


I spent hours placing the pattern pieces because I realized that unfortunate placement of those large light blue flowers could easily ruin the whole dress. I didn’t want a huge bull’s eye over one boob or my fat belly! I made the self fabric sash, but decided on this lovely charcoal gray grosgrain ribbon instead. The contrast drew more attention to my high waist and was a tad more slimming.


Conclusion: A versatile pattern suitable for all kinds of fabrics. I think it dressed up nicely and it will definitely make an easy casual dress. I’m thinking about cotton sateen or linen so I don’t have to fuss with a lining. Without all the additions I made for this dressy version, this pattern could be made up in an afternoon. In fact, this would be the perfect place to start if you’ve never sewn for yourself before. There’s only simple fitting and almost instant gratification!

This style was a little outside my comfort zone. I normally look for fitted things and I’m scared of anything that might make me look wider than I am. But after three children, I have a completely different body than I did 7 years ago and I’m still learning how to dress it. The moral of this story – if you know the designer is good, trust her vision and take a chance on something different!

(also, don’t let your husband take pictures.)

13 comments:

  1. This dress looks far too good to be just a 'casual' dress - you have done a great job on it, from the flower placements right to the belt loops. Looks extremely stylish on you....

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  2. Your dress looks so fabulous, I'm thinking maybe I should give this pattern another go. I made it a couple months ago in one size smaller than my usual, and I was swimming in it!

    I especially love the day look with the cardi, and the ribbon belt :-)

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  3. Thank you, thank you! That's sweet of you both to say. Gail, I think it is worth another try. If you have a slighter build than I do and don't care for that much ease, maybe take some of the fullness out of the center front (and center back if you like) when you cut the pattern in addition to sizing down.

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  4. You, and your dress both look great! Thanks for the inspiration.

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  5. Thanks, Samantha, I'm so glad you like it!

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  6. Hi melanie - I just found your blog from a comment on sewing pattern review dot com. I just dived into the world of Oliver+s patterns and I am so pleased by them. Then to discover your blog and gorgeous interpretations of the patterns has been eye candy! My first three children are boys and therefore I never sewed for them (you can relate). Now I have a little baby girl and the world has opened up! It's funny because I recognize lots of your fabric as I have purchased the same as well! I'm currently in tte middle of designing and sewing my daughters spring summer wardrobe and your reviews have helped! I'm buying the ice cream dress ASAP (I even have the same bird fabric as you only in lavender) I'm thinking of the puppet show shorts in different fabrics for much of her wardrobe. Cheers!

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  7. Thanks for your thoughtful comment, Shannon. You won't be dispointd with the ice cram dress. It's wonderful for little babies and older children too. I make at least one per season. It is so much fun having a girl, isn't it? It seems to get better each day! This spring summer I will also be making lots of puppet show shorts now she's on the move. I love your Pinterest board, btw.

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  8. What a great review. I'm just beginning a Lisette Continental Sew Along on my blog, so it's wonderful to get some fab tips from someone who had made it already. Love your version!

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  9. Beautiful dress and it looks lovely on you.

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  10. Curly Pops, glad to be of help! I'll follow your sew along. I have plans for a casual version of this.

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  11. your dress turned out lovely! i agree, the dress is versatile and can be dressed up or down, depending on the occasion. its lovely to wear as well. love your fabric!!!

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